Dinner @ 雲陽 Yun Yan

雲陽是在銅鑼灣時代廣場食通天最新開張的餐廳，主打摩登跟傳統四川菜，但跟它以前位於尖沙咀的前身雲陽閣相差很遠。地方明顯地比之前的地點小了很多，服務態度也令人失望，而它如School Food般的裝潢像是要吸引年青的客人，但是環境風格很不統一，失去了以前的華麗 (elegance) 和舒適 (comfort) 感覺，顯得弄巧反拙。它的名菜如水煮牛肉 Poached Beef Slices in Chili Broth ($138)雖然也保持水準，但分量跟賣相也大不如前。 晚餐要大概每人$200到$300。

Yun Yan is a surprisingly dull and tedious reincarnation of its hearty and elegant predecessor, Yunyan Sichuan Restaurant, which was known for its traditional Sichuan dishes (located in Miramar Shopping Centre in Tsim Sha Tsui).   Newly opened at Times Square in Causeway Bay, Yun Yan is described to add on a few hip and modern twists to its Sichuan cuisine.  Being fans of the previous restaurant, we were very excited to be its first customers. 

To our horror, we immediately noticed Yun Yan was nothing like the restaurant we once knew.  Despite the ambience was more stylish and casual, with dim lightings and bar tables, the space was noticeably small and narrow, unlike the spacious room and bright lighting in the former shop.  The decor did not match the cuisine which was meant to offer a soothing space for gatherings.  Yun Yan did not lack ambition in aiming to attract younger and more contemporary customers, but the new shop felt like a downgrade and it failed to render the same ambience of elegance and comfort that won our hearts in the first place. 

 The service was instantly disappointing upon arrival.  The staff was unenthusiastic and impolite.  We booked a table at 8 p.m. but we were told when we arrived that we had to sit at the bar because we didn't specify we wanted a table.  And then we were told to wait for an "unknown" period of time after being treated as one of the fellow "walk-ins". We were finally led to our seats at 8:30 p.m. by an unfriendly waitress. Dinner was priced at around $200 to $300 per head. 

(1) We started with the 魚香茄子酥 Puff Pastries filled with Eggplant in Chili Garlic Sauce ($38/4 pieces).  The dish itself was delicious with a balanced and well-judged taste of eggplant and chili garlic. 

(2) The 蒜泥白肉 Sliced Pork in Spicy Garlic Soya Sauce ($68) did not excite us in its appearance, nor did it wow us in its taste.  The dish was mediocre and the taste was all right but it was nothing near refreshing for the price we were paying. 

(3) The 鐵板雞汁鍋貼 Sizzling Minced Pork Dumplings with Chicken Stock ($38/4 pieces) was nothing more than ordinary dumplings, and there was nothing special about this dish.  Having said that, it was an acceptable dish if you were looking to fill your stomach. 

(4) The highlight of the evening would be the 水煮牛肉 Poached Beef Slices in Chili Broth ($138), which was, we think, its signature dish.  The dish tasted spicy enough, and while we did not doubt the authenticity of its recipe, it was slightly smaller than what we used to have and the beef slices had been harder to find than before.  The price, on the other hand, was more expensive.  

Overall remarks:  Despite its lavish decorations, its attempt to "modernize" its dishes, and its admirable dedication to Sichuan cuisine, Yun Yan became so indistinct that it was tedious to sit through and did not bear any semblance of what made its predecessor so fascinating and memorable and stand out from other restaurants. (We do not need a "School Food-style" Sichuan restaurant!) Thoroughly disappointed by its (failed) transformation and renewal, we are sorry to say that we do not plan to be stepping foot in this restaurant any time soon. 

Food: ★ ★ ★ ☆ ☆
Ambience: ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆
Service: ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

INFO

雲陽 Yun Yan  (website)
Shop 1001B, 10/F, Times Square, 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay 銅鑼灣勿地臣街1號時代廣場10樓1001B號舖
Telephone: 2375 0800